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An Interview with
Dunya Ramicova, costume designer
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"The entire
color palette is taken from this photo. The heightened
yellow, greens and grays were the inspiration for
the military. The scientists sit in that area with
the touch of lavender. It gives an idea of the barrenness
of the landscape, the dryness and heat during the
day and the coldness in the evening. We are recreating
the effects of the sun when clothing gets sun-bleached
or starts to go on the shoulders from sun exposure
and the dustiness that gets worked into the creases
of shoes and buttons."
- Jai Alltizer, senior production supervisor |
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My main inspirations were from the
photographs that I collected. Some of them were from
websites, some were from books, but primarily it was
from the photographs from the Children of the Manhattan
Project website. I also went to the site in New Mexico.
I went to Los Alamos and the museum in Albuquerque
and watched a movie there about the Manhattan Project
and bought several videos and CDs, as well as every
book that was available. That was primarily the research.
In terms of the colors, I collected a lot of materials
that were at the site, like stones and minerals that
I found. Thats where the color came from.
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I started doing research after reading
the libretto. Then I showed the research to the director.
Peter and I have worked together so much that I actually
ended up showing him primarily the finished product
because we just know each other so well. After collaborating
with the directors, I created the designs. I didn't
paint them this time, partly because there wasn't
enough time and partly because the palette is so small.
I then met with the costume shop staff and started
to break things down and make decisions as to what
we will make and what we will buy. We went down to
Los Angeles to shop for fabric and shopped a little
around the Bay Area. Then, it's in the costume shop's
hands, and I come in and look at what they are working
on. We have an extremely short dress rehearsal period
here, so the fittings are even more important because
there is no time to fix things on stage.
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Because they are based on what those
real people wore, the costumes obviously reflect them
completely because all the costumes are based on something
I saw. The one person who is not like that is Kitty.
And that's partly because she is basically the only
woman besides Pasqualita and the female chorus. I
wanted to get a sense of her vulnerability and her
sexiness and womanhood, which Kitty had. She was very
feminine and at the same time a mysterious person.
Her costumes are based on what Peter and I talked
about. That's really the only costume I designed.
The rest I copied from reality.
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It's based on what they actually wore.
Oppenheimer always wore the suit because it separated
him as an authority figure, so he wore it everywhere
unless it was a personal weekend excursion. The younger
people were more casual. Robert Wilson wore shorts
or jeans. Some of the older men have a more European
look. Because I am copying reality, the relationships
are already there. Groves is a very interesting character
because he wanted so much to have the army discipline,
so he is always immaculate. I didnt invent anything
really it was all there.
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I think it's the color and the ghostliness, as
well as the sense of the flash of the atomic bomb.
I tried to get a little bit of that. I don't like
to do things where the audience says, Oh that's
what that means! I need to be mysterious. I
dont want it to be something that hits you over
the head. But it's primarily the color palette and
the sort of ghostliness. In Los Alamos, its
almost like you feel the people are still there. Theres
something very haunting about the feeling of the spirit
of the people being there. That's what I was trying
to do.
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